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Milly (howto2) wrote,
@ 2009-07-25 14:10:00
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    Rock Climbing Technique and Tips
    The following tips are seen as the most essential techniques with biggest payoff in rock climbing performance:

    Warm Up and Stretch: Stretching improves circulation and flexibility which translates to improved climbing technique. Prior to climbing, take a half hour to get your muscles and joints limbered, and your heart rate elevated a little. This simple step of stretching and warming up makes the difference between several grades of difficulty, and will help prevent injury. Climbers using good climbing technique will work many muscle groups, and position their limbs in extreme positions which are not used during daily life. Stretching and warming up helps the joints, ligaments, muscles move and last a little longer.

    Preview and Read the Route: This is a skill to develop just like any physical technical climbing move. Advanced climbers are skilled at reading climbing routes, this is one of the most important of the mental skills for improving climbing technique. Before you climb, visualize the sequences through the entire route--or as much as you can see from the ground. Anticipate weight, balance, reach, and each move through the route. Here is the key: find the crux and decide the position you need to be in to complete it. Work backwards down the route. Make mental notes where your left and right hands and feet are positioned. When you climb, start the sequence going into the crux so your hands and feet and body is positioned correctly when you reach the crux. This takes some practice. After you complete the route, look at it again and re-analyze it. Develop a habit of previewing routes before climbing. The more you do it the better you will become.

    Improve Your Balance: The starting point for developing a good rock climbing technique begins with your sense of balance, and how you control your balance on the wall. Your feet may be close together, or spread-eagle, or in an even stance. Your center of balance is always centered on your body mass. Your center of gravity should be centered in a forward-backward as well as a left-right direction. A good sense of balance is the key to moving smoothly and making difficult climbing moves appear effortless. The center of mass is approximately the middle of your body, around your belly. By being conscious of your center of gravity when you make a climbing move, you can anticipate the direction of force on a hand or foot hold as you make a move, and after you have made the move. A simple exercise to help improve your center of gravity and climbing technique are to find a 60 degree or greater slab and traverse it a using only your feet. If necessary use your hands for balance, but do not grip the wall. Traverse back and forth. This simple exercise will help you develop a sense of balance and give you muscle memory for good rock climbing technique.

    Keep Your Body Close to the Wall: You should also keep your center of gravity balanced in a forward-backward direction. In other words, toward the wall or away from the wall. As a rule, keep your body close to the wall. Understandably, sometimes leaning back away from the wall is necessary to see the route. There is no set distance because of the variety of types of moves and hand holds in climbing. In most cases, the more accurate you need to be with your balance the closer to the wall your body and face should be.

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